In my last blogpost, A Radical Mystery Tour, my focus was Brixton. Inspired by Poplar’s radical history, I had planned a similar walk through Poplar, in East London. In the event, I decided not to do it. After Brixton, Poplar High Street – absent busy foot-fall to workplace or shops – felt so lacking in street life that I found myself adrift.
Shelving plans for a guided group walk, I revisited seminal texts, including Peter Ackroyd’s London The Biography. Ackroyd pondered that “ altered seem somehow lighter, perhaps because they have lost touch with their history.” In two of his most recent books, the historian James Walvin signals colonial expansion, and its pernicious legacy, from the late sixteenth century.
By 1600, Elizabeth I had granted the English East India Company it’s royal charter – Poplar became one of the principal mooring sites for shipping.

The first corporation, the East India Company had a monopoly on trade east of the Cape of Good Hope. As its trade and influence grew, it made its mark on Poplar, founding the church of St. Matthias, in 1654.

Also enduring was the Company’s taste-making: cultivating consumption of tea, coffee and porcelain crockery to contain these beverages- and sugar from Caribbean plantations. By the late eighteenth century, trading in the above and other commodities was big business, So, in the early nineteenth century massive construction was begun at Poplar: first West India Dock, then East India Dock.

London has always attracted migrants seeking work here (myself included). Although my partner’s forebears lived in the City of London when the Company was formed, in the late eighteenth century the family moved east. Drawn by new opportunities, first to Limehouse and then to Poplar, their occupations included sawyer, painter, and ship’s rigger – all connected to the docks.
Ackroyd cites a memoir of Poplar High Street in the early twentieth century being lined by “ little shops of various shapes and sizes … including a parrot cage shop…a musical instrument shop… and rows of little one-storeyed [sic] houses standing a few feet back from the pavement behind iron railings.” Shops likely sold newly imported wares. Also they met demand for kit for ‘exotic pets’ brought back by merchant seamen. They included my grandfather (a stoker, who shovelled coal into ships’ furnaces) and his father before him, who returned to Greenwich with wild animals – as family pets.
Thanks to interest in people’s history, generated by History Workshop from the 1960’s to the 1980’s, working class people were encouraged to record their testimony- either in interviews or on paper. Funded by the Greater London Council, small community ventures, published short books. One such was Stepney Books, which published John Blake’s Memories of Old Poplar, in 1977.
Born in 1899, Blake’s book records the texture of street life, when children hopscotched, swung from ropes hanging from lamp-posts, or played marbles or spinning tops. Meanwhile adults enjoyed the bustle of markets, or music halls. In addition, men spent time in pubs, or at Millwall football matches at “the Mudshoot on the Isle of Dogs”.
Blake evokes the dynamism of dockland struggles in Poplar as a site of resistance to capitalism.The gates to East India Dock were the starting point for demonstrations “ in a working-class area …with Labour MPs… and a great number of workers being members of trade unions“. 1926, during the General Strike, “ industry was forced to a halt, and all the unions were involved in support of the miners. There were scenes of violence…troops were marching down the roads, even small tanks were brought in. “ Blake does not cite any casualties necessitating admission to the Poplar Hospital for Accidents.
After the General Strike, Blake noted that a packed meeting was addressed by Manny Shinwell, the radical former MP, at Poplar Town Hall. When “ a crowd formed [outside] the security forces cleared [it]”. As to local politics, Blake witnessed the privation that in 1924 gave rise to the Poplar Rates Dispute, when local councillors, led by George Lansbury, demanded “equalisation of rates for the poor boroughs”.
After World War II, Blake – like many Poplarites – was rehoused to Dagenham, due to bomb damage. His loss of a sense of place pervades his pamphlet. Bereft of attachment to his old area: Poplar’s “ old world of landscapes and neighbours had disappeared. Whole rows of houses and streets [including Chrisp Street Market] have gone to give way to modern housing. The old friendship which existed [before the war] between shopkeeper and customer had been swept away.” Blake wondered: is it possible that the old Poplar atmosphere of good neighbourliness will be sustained by the new?”
Blake could not have had any inkling of the changes on the horizon. For the upheavals precipitated by the fracturing of Britain’s imperial trading nexus, and the manifestation of a new global shipping method – containerisation – led in the Sixties to the docks’ closure.

That transformation notwithstanding, Blake’s closing lines, written ten years after the closure in 1967 of East India Dock, pose a new vision for docklands. “ What a wonderful thing it would be if the Council could join forces with British and foreign industrialists to redevelop the area, and make Poplar docks and Millwall the hive of industry it was once.”

Instead, Docklands became a centre of international finance, whose success was based on quite different trading links. In glinting glass, red lights flashing, to warn aircraft to and from London City Airport, of its obelisks Canary Wharf towers over Poplar. Meanwhile St Matthias church now houses a community centre, which dispenses meals on wheels – the poor living cheek-by-jowl with the City’s money-makers.
In the new Index of Multiple Deprivation 55 indicators are listed. One is living environment: it is deeply troubling to note the material impact on residents of post-industrial cities.
In our volatile times, when ‘the virtual’ increasingly determines social reality, it is imperative to restore material connectivity. To offset the ravages of deindustrialisation, and consequent atomisation, the case of Poplar demands that we collaborate collectively – to construct an alternative reality.
References
Ackroyd, Peter, London: The Biography, 2001
Ackroyd, Peter, Thames, Sacred River, 2007
Walvin, James, How Sugar Corrupted the World: From Slavery to Obesity, 2019
Walvin, James, A World Transformed: Slavery in the Americas and the Origins of Global Power, 2022
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